Ladies' Home Journal, a women's magazine first published in 1883, frequently covered first ladies with a feature article and accompanying images. Pleats and a clever V-bodice added architecture to the unadorned gown, designed by John Moore. At the inaugural ball in 1977, she wore a dress the public had already seen before. “People have been watching the first lady and what she wears since Martha Washington,” says Lisa Kathleen Graddy, curator of American political history, reform movements, and women’s political history at the Smithsonian’s National Museum of American History. The designer met Mary the day of her husband’s inauguration and was immediately brought on to help fashion the first lady. Over the years, the role of first lady has been filled by a range of personalities. Women crane to see what she is wearing. And whether we like it or not, what she wears pkats an integral part in shaping her public image for those four years to come. When the Kennedys entered the White House, Jacqueline was the third-youngest first lady in United States history at 31 years old and was well-liked by … Tags terms: Saved by Gayle Fleming. George Bush and Barbara Bush, in Arnold Scaasi, at the gala in 1989. From Jackie Kennedy and Nancy Reagan to Michelle Obama and Melania Trump, some of the best First Lady fashion through history. The dress was an elegant column of satin with a beaded waist in the same style as a cropped jacket worn with it. Refinery2916 Looks From The Crown Inspired By Princess Diana’s Best Fashion MomentsFans of Princess Diana's fashion have been awaiting the The 40 Most Controversial First Lady Fashion Moments in History - See the most fashion-forward women who have called the White House home. For his second inauguration in 1949, the president and the first lady celebrated the affair fully with a series of elaborate and well-produced events. Robust budget aside, Jackie O popularized many statement pieces unique to … Prompted by the Second World War, her husband, Franklin D. Roosevelt, was the only president to serve four terms. While on the surface it may seem frivolous to talk about a First Lady in terms of her appearance, there’s a lot of symbolism tied up in First Lady style, and Michelle Obama is certainly not the first FLOTUS whose hair became the talk of the country. Laura Bush wore a red gown by Texan designer Michael Faircloth to her husband's first inaugural gala in 2001. Photo: Jimmy Carter Presidential Library and Museum/ NARA. Her appreciation and eye for fashion positioned her as a style maker, though she’s remembered mostly for her antidrug programs. [1] Anthony J. Eksterowicz and Robert P. Watson, "Treatment of First Ladies in American Government and Presidency Textbooks: Overlooked, Yet Influential, Voices," PS: Political Science and Politics 33, no. It was impossible to participate directly in her style without also being able to buy Parisian couture clothes, a luxury few Americans could afford. Four years later, at Ronald Reagan’s second swearing-in ceremony, Nancy wore a collarless electric blue suit and hat, with gold chain jewelry and button earrings. Pat Nixon in her second inaugural ballgown, designed by Adele Simpson of New York, in 1973. Photo: Division of Political and MilitaryHistory, National Museum of American History, Smithsonian Institution. Pat Nixon models the Harvey Berin gown wore to the inaugural ball in 1969. Laura Bush also wore Oscar de la Renta to her husband's second inaugural ball in 2005. Ad Choices. Rosalynn Carter was a one-term first lady who opted to minimize her role as hostess at the White House, instead focusing on diplomacy. Photos of some of the best fashion looks from the First Ladies of the U.S., throughout history, from Jackie Kennedy to Michelle Obama. Here are a few First Lady dresses through the years that have captured our hearts and shifted fashion culture. She served as the First Lady of the United States from 2009 to 2017. Dr. Jill Biden, in a facemask in the same shade as her Markarian dress, and Joe Biden. 15, no. From Grace Coolidge's flapper style in the '20s, to Jacqueline Kennedy's bold looks in the '60s and beyond, the First Ladies of America have managed to mix old-school class with modern-day looks to add a touch o… As it is, her choices seem to draw from her time as a model. Jeanne Paquin – the first woman to open her own fashion house in the world !, Callot Soeurs (run by four sisters) and milliner Caroline Reboux who pioneered the now famous Cloche Hat – one of the defining design images of the Flapper days of the 1920’s. At Ronald Reagan’s first swearing-in ceremony in 1981, Nancy wore a coat and hat in a color dubbed Reagan red. All rights reserved. For the ball, she dazzled in a high-neck, long-sleeve embroidered tulle dress in ivory metallics. Meticulously compiled using a number of historic fashion plates, this timeline showcases the many shifts in styles that occurred in women's fashion over the course of nearly 200 years. Pat Nixon in a fuschia-colored, double-breasted coat by Jay Sarnoff Custom Couture at the ceremony in 1969. The gown worn by Jacqueline Kennedy to JFK's inauguration in 1961. It’s not confirmed what, exactly, Mary Todd Lincoln wore to the inauguration celebrations, but it’s believed that she wore the same dress in this photo taken after the event. To revist this article, visit My Profile, then View saved stories. Kennedy continued to buy couture in addition to American-made versions of Paris models from department stores, which American ready-to-wear retailers would then copy and promote as the "Jackie Look." It’s filled with trimmings—the skirt is bustled, pleated, and edged with beaded fringe, and the bodice is beaded, laced, and appliqued. This time, he chose a fiery red color for a silk chiffon halter dress that moved beautifully around the stage as Michelle and her husband danced. As American’s longest-running first lady, Eleanor Roosevelt held several inauguration ceremonies and balls. President George W. Bush, Laura Bush (in Michael Faircloth), Bill Clinton, Hillary Clinton in 2001. In response, Kennedy reached out to then-Harper’s Bazaar fashion editor Diana Vreeland for clothing advice, citing the need to buy her clothes domestically. F ashion for women in the first decade of the twentieth century largely followed the fashion of the previous century. This reputation would follow her through her eight years as FLOTUS. (For the second time around, Rosalynn did refresh the look with a new coat.). Bill Clinton, Hillary Clinton (in Oscar de la Renta), and Chelsea Clinton at the second inauguration in 1997. The dress was made from a mimosa silk satin festooned with gold and silver embellishments. The material on this site may not be reproduced, distributed, transmitted, cached or otherwise used, except with the prior written permission of Condé Nast. That night, she wore a wonderful royal blue gown by Arnold Scaasi, constructed in velvet at the bodice and sleeves with a draped satin skirt. Learn more about her life and career. Hillary Clinton also wore Oscar de la Renta to the inaugural ball in 1997. It was designed by Adolfo. 9. Is it a coincidence that one of the most traditionally feminine fabrics seems to be making a resurgence in the wake of the #metoo movement? She paired it with a fur stole and hat. “Mrs. Grace Coolidge’s Evening Dress. Despite the increasing number of garment factories and sewing innovations, a great deal of clothing production was still done in the home or in small workshops throughout the beginning of the 20th century. Kennedy's wardrobe was based on Paris fashions of the time. Known as Bess, Elizabeth Truman was a first lady who preferred to stay out of the presidential limelight, standing in stark contrast to her predecessor, Eleanor Roosevelt. Next Martha Dandrige Custis Washington At her husband’s first inauguration in 1897, she wore an exquisite gown of pale gray brocade and added a lace fichu. To the ball, it would be a mimosa silk-satin gown designed by Karen Stark for Harvey Berin. Some of these women stayed in the background while others used their position to advocate for specific issues. Edith unfortunately cut up most of her dresses—fabric was a luxury that was to be reworked into new dresses as styles changed. Mrs. Ida Saxton McKinley's inaugural dress featured lace as she was an avid collector. Once again, she wore Adolfo for the ceremony and Galanos for the ball. To the swearing-in ceremony, she wore an elegant winter white cashmere coat and dress. Mary Todd Lincoln in 1861 in what is thought to be her inaugural ball gown. The look was finished off with a matching belt embellished with metallic paillettes. Fashion is an aesthetic expression, at a particular period and place and in a specific context, of clothing, footwear, lifestyle, accessories, makeup, hairstyle, and body proportions. Though not successful in the election of 1888, the Clevelands returned to the White House in 1892 for a second term, and Cleveland continued to be a fashion leader for women of her time. Footwear News - Shannon Adducci • 42d. Part one of twenty in depth looks at women’s and men’s fashion of the fifties. She’s also pictured at the inaugural ceremony parade in a suit and wide-brimmed hat. Photo: National Museum of American History, Smithsonian Institution. Photo: Universal History Archive/Getty Images. A history lesson you don't want to skip. Their daughter, Margaret, wore a diaphanous tulle gown. The highly structured silhouette of the Gibson Girl was still popular at the beginning of the decade. Still, her influence is indelible and reflects a long history of First Ladies as trend setters. Michelle Obama is the first lady who most closely rivals Kennedy's reputation as a style icon. Photo: National Museum of American History, Smithsonian Institution. For the swearing-in event, she wore a red wool dress and matching hat. Jan. 17, 2013. First ladies have been the subject of numerous wardrobe "scandals," too, like Pat Nixon wearing pants or Hillary Clinton's cold shoulders. Trousers enter recorded history in the 6th century BC, on the rock carvings and artworks of Persepolis, and with the appearance of horse-riding Eurasian nomads in Greek ethnography.At this time, Iranian peoples such as Scythians, Sarmatians, Sogdians and Bactrians among others, along with Armenians and Eastern and Central Asian peoples such as the Xiongnu/Hunnu, are known to have worn trousers. A History of Melania Trump ... but a great deal of the wrath directed at Mrs. Trump—like others before her—has been centered around her fashion choices. In some photos, she’s seen accessorized with a white floral corsage. At the gala, she wore a long-sleeve turquoise gown covered in crystal details by Adele Simpson. Jimmy Carter and Rosalynn Carter, in a Dominic Rompollo coat, in 1977. The latest fashion news, beauty coverage, celebrity style, fashion week updates, culture reviews, and videos on Vogue.com. Hillary Clinton next to her Sarah Phillips gown. Before her time in pantsuits as secretary of state, Hillary Clinton more often wore dresses and skirts as first lady. I have written a number of articles on 1950s women’s fashion already, but now it’s time to pull them all together, add the missing elements, and explore menswear, too. Eventually, the museum received the skirt belonging to her second inaugural gown and fashioned a bodice after photographs. Brigitte Macron, Carla Bruni, and More: A Brief History of France’s First Ladies and Their Front-Row Affair with Fashion ... (1974-1981) picked up the mantle of fashion’s first lady. Photo: Alex Wong/Getty Images. 3 (2000): 590. Reportedly, Louisa Catherine Adams is the first first lady to wear makeup, using homemade face powder and lipstick against her husband's wishes. Think of all the times Michelle Obama championed American designers, while others stumble finding their place in the canon of fashion history; see: Melania Trump's infamous jacket. By wearing dresses that were reminiscent of the Greek republic, she was reminding people of the ideals America represented. Related ArticlesFashion History Lesson: Celebrity Clothing Lines Date Back to the 1800sFashion History Lesson: How Halston, Levi Strauss and Ralph Lauren Changed Olympic UniformsFashion History Lesson: The Boozy Evolution of the Cocktail Dress. Hillary Clinton wore an Arkansas-based designer to her husband's first inaugural ball in 1993. The decision was not celebrated for its wastelessness but rather deemed a lazy choice by the press, who knew she had worn the dress to Jimmy Carter’s inauguration as governor of Georgia in 1971. Jacqueline Kennedy in a suit by Oleg Cassini with John F Kennedy at his inauguration in 1961. However, Kennedy received criticism during her husband's campaign for not buying clothes by American designers. The chronological presentation begins in the year 1784, when frilly, floor-length hoop skirts were all the rage. Before she was first lady, Laura Bush was an educator, and she took up literacy as one of her many initiatives. For the ball, she wore James Galanos—she was a repeated patron of the American couturier and cemented his status as an in-demand dressmaker. She was the first to donate her gown worn in 1909, an empire-waist dress in ivory (since discolored to a buttery color) heavily beaded in sprays. Though she carefully mixes high and low pieces and designers, she also has attracted flak for placing such emphasis on the fashion industry. A few first ladies even played an important role in their husband's administration, working alongside the president to help enact policies. The press misunderstood her condition and scrutinized her abilities to serve as first lady, but Ida was resolute in proving herself capable. Footwear News - Shannon Adducci • 42d. The first lady of the United States holds a peculiar role in U.S. politics: She is not an elected leader and has no official duties, but whomever is in the role never fails to command the public's attention. Mamie brought a light touch to the role of first lady, playing hostess with panache and embracing fashions all the while. On October 8, 2014, the First Lady delivered remarks at the Fashion Education Workshop at the White House. Michelle Obama, in Thom Browne, with daughters Sasha and Malia at Barack Obama's second inauguration in 2013. and shift dresses for daytime. Lady Duff Gordon. She is considered to be the first lady of American society. Her no-nonsense approach carried over into her wardrobe. She sticks to favorites like Dolce & Gabbana or Ralph Lauren. The appearance and dress of first ladies are important factors when attempting to harness a first lady's political potential, and that has been increasingly true since the election of 1960. The pink dress was embroidered with more than 2,000 rhinestones and designed by Nettie Rosenstein. Grazia: The Good Vibes By Grazia. [5] The American consumer looking to dress in Kennedy's image would be buying a garment that had been filtered through the fashion system. ... Kennedy became the First Lady of Fashion. She was only the second foreign-born first lady, after Louisa Adams. For all her Ivy League education and confident activism, Michelle Obama is also a controversial fashion icon. It features the highly fashionable crinoline skirt of the mid-19th century, which is festooned with ruffles and a florets pattern. Welcome to Fashion History Lesson, in which we dive deep into the origin and evolution of the fashion industry's most influential and omnipresent businesses, icons, trends and more. It is a highly structured portrait. She experienced the loss of several family members, including her two young daughters, and became diagnosed with chronic epilepsy that left her almost immobile. The Fashion History Timeline is a project by FIT’s History of Art Department. [5] Hamish Bowles, Jacqueline Kennedy: The White House Years, New York: Bulfinch Press, 2001. This use of clothing as symbolism would inform first ladies to come, including Michelle Obama. For her husband’s second inauguration in 1873, Julia wore a … At the first inauguration for her husband, Dwight D. Eisenhower, in 1953, she wore a peau de soie silk dress embroidered with more than 2,000 rhinestones. And whether thought to be warranted or not, the American public will always seem to notice what the first lady is wearing. When Grover Cleveland (1837-1908) was running for reelection in 1888, his young wife Frances Folsom Cleveland (1864-1947) used her reputation as an attractive and fashionable woman to campaign for him. History of fashion design refers specifically to the development of the purpose and intention behind garments, shoes and accessories, and their design and construction. Lyndon Johnson dancing with Lady Bird Johnson at his inaugural ball in 1965. First Lady Nancy Reagan's 1981 inaugural ball gown not only solidified her style, but it also launched the career of designer James Galanos. The article, "Mrs. Harrison in the White House," outlines a day in the home life of the first lady, giving the public insight to a fabled home and its occupants. Newsweek reports that, in her first year as First Lady, she reportedly spent $45,466 more on her wardrobe than the $100,000 her husband John F. Kennedy earned as commander-in-chief. This is a partial facsimile of the gown worn by Edith Roosevelt to the second inauguration of her husband, Theodore Roosevelt, as president in 1905. She dressed extravagantly for some events but knew when to scale it back so as not to overshadow her husband. From left to right, First Ladies Pat Nixon in 1973, Jacqueline Kennedy in 1961, Lady Bird Johnson in 1965, Laura Bush in 2001, Michelle Obama in 2013, Hillary Clinton in 1997 Michelle Obama wore an Isabel Toledo dress and coat set to Barack Obama's first inauguration in 2009. Dolley Madison (1768-1849) had a tremendous impact on her husband's administration, not just because he valued her political acumen, but also because she worked to create a public image as a fashionable woman and a consummate White House host. Coming after Nancy Regan, Barbara Bush’s personal style was less fashion forward and in line with her down-to-earth sensibilities. Coverage in newspapers and magazines allowed the public to follow first ladies' lives and documented their interests and fashions, as Vogue and other publications do to this day. Four years later at Nixon’s second inauguration in 1973, she opted for yet another solid-colored coat, this time in a blue-green trimmed with a fur collar. She wore a single-breasted, peacock blue coat and skirt to the day ceremony and later a long-sleeve, crystal-embroidered gown of Chantilly lace over silk georgette. Nancy Reagan wearing an art deco-like James Galanos Gown to her husband's second inauguration in 1985. Jan. 17, 2013. There was no accompanying article on her life in the White House or the fashions she wore; instead, the magazine published sheet music for a song written by John Philip Sousa entitled "The Lady of The White House." [3] Gary A. Donaldson, The First Modern Campaign: Kennedy, Nixon, and the Election of 1960 (Lanham, MD: Rowman & Littlefield Publishers, Inc, 2007). The gown, designed by Sarah Phillips, was a slinky, violet-beaded lace sheath dress with an iridescent blue velvet silk mousseline overskirt for added volume. The first gown was a one-shoulder, heavily beaded (as was the Galanos way) dress with a lace overlay. Today we start a new series all about 1950s fashion. Technically, FDR canceled official balls for his second and third inaugurations (in 1937 and 1941) because of the Great Depression and WWII, respectively, and hosted smaller events instead. At one, she wore a dark-colored gown with a floral brooch and fur coat.